Daugavpils is a city of many faces. It is located in Eastern Latvia very near the border of Belarus (which is now a part of our Baltic mission). There have been people living here since 1275. Daugavpils is regarded as a "Russian city" as the majority of the residents are Russian. Under Soviet occupation the city was mostly used for industrial purposes and since Latvia got it's independence the city has been neglected. It has many churches and beautiful old buildings and is full of history and the city seems to be in the process of improving it's image .
For lunch, we found a restaurant on the 7th floor of a hotel where we could enjoy a view of the city.
The Daugavpils Fortress is part of the historical past of Imperial Russia. In 1810, when Napoleon was bent on world conquest, Russian War Minister, Barclay de Tolly (Sister Davis just finished reading War & Peace by Leo Tolstoy) wanted to build a fort in Dinaburg (now Daugavpils) that could hold 4,500 soldiers, to keep the invaders out of Russia. Tsar Alexander I liked the idea and wanted it equipped with 595 cannons. It wasn't completed before Napoleon's army attacked in July 1812. It held off the French army for a short while and then was overtaken. Napoleon didn't occupy it for long and work was started back up on it. It is in remarkable shape for it's age and the place is HUGE!
During WWII, the Nazi's used Daugavpils fortress area as a concentration camp -“Stalag-340”, where thousands of people were killed and tortured. According to estimates, over 15,000 Jews lived in the "ghetto" under a commandant who was known for his extreme cruelty. After WWII, part of the fortress, was transformed into a prison for particularly dangerous prisoners.
There are a lot of stories to tell about the part this fortress played in the Holocaust (we have local books on the subject) but what is interesting, is that none of the signs tell you anything about that period of history. It is as if nothing about the Holocaust ever took place here. There is one small sign, in several languages that explain why the fortress was built and by whom but nothing is mentioned about this being "Stalag 340". That information you have to find yourselves... in books or online.
As we drive in through the narrow tunnel ...we notice a lot of construction work going on.
A sign tells us the fortress is undergoing a cultural heritage renovation. The city with private partners has plans to make the whole compound into a new "upscale" tourist destination, that includes a business, cultural and art centre. See photo below:
It is a little ironic, that the plans include a "Rothko Art Centre" in the Old Arsenal building. Mark Rothlowitz, later changed to Rothko (1903-1970), was a world-famous abstract artist, born in Dvinsk, Russia (now Daugavpils, Latvia). His family followed the path of many Latvian Jews, they immigrated to the United States in 1913. In 2007, one of his paintings appropriately called "White Center" (photo below) sold for 72.8 million dollars....
...no wonder Daugavpils wants to claim him as one of "their own".
We are glad to have seen the fortress in a more "natural state". You can really get a feel for the history that took place here still. Within a few years, the fortress won't be recognizable as a military compound at all.
The yellow building below was the hospital and plans are already approved for renovation. It is a big and once beautiful building.
These cannon may be the only thing in the future that will show that this was once a military garrison.
Some of the buildings need a lot of work but you can see why we could get a feel for the history while walking around the fortress.
Some of the buildings are in sad shape....
... and yet we discovered that people were living in some of the buildings and there was even a small store on the bottom floor of one of them.
We finally saw this small sign on a brick building....we aren't sure what it says but the dates make it a WWII memorial of some kind.
A few kilometers up the road from the fortress was a small sign...
Since kapi is the Latvian word for cemetery and facism is what the Soviets called the Nazi's this must be the place Elder Davis was trying to find.
The white monument is the memorial for all the Soviet POW's buried here.
And this little slab of granite near a grassy area, says....
"The remains of prisoners of the Daugavpils ghetto are buried here."
In several mass graves....
But small as the marker is reminding us of what happened here, at least there was a memorial.
And as we drove back into Daugavpils we got to see another side of the city. Now Riga has some pretty nice church buildings but the ones we saw in Daugavpils are really special.
First, is the very small Eglise Orthodox Church. It is blue and white cute-ness!
Next we found the all-white Church of the Virgin Mary....
St. Mary's Church of the Old Believers decked out in pink and very colorful....
The all brick Martin Luther Church...
We are sorry but we don't know the name of this pink and white cutie....
But the most grand church in Daugavpils is arguably, the Boris and Gleb Russian Orthodox Church....it's pretty fancy!
It is amazing the architecture we see here. Every design intricate and beautiful.
Daugavpils is definitely a city of many faces!

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